Thursday, June 2, 2011

Motoring Manners

Motoring Manners

Here are some things one can follow to have a pleasant commute.

Look before you wash your windshield
Next time you want to pull that windshield wash lever, just look around to see if there any motorcyclists just close to you. Using the washer then sprays water on them too. 

Brake gradually
Even if you have to come to a quick halt, make sure you brake gradual enough so that your distance from the car ahead is little i.e. if you have space ahead, use all of that distance to make it a gradual stop. Remember, the vehicle behind you need not have as good a brake as you have. 

Respect the newbie
If a driver in front of you is new to operating the clutch and switches the car off by mistake, don’t honk. It’s not going to help. In fact, the honking will only cause more tension for the learner. Give him the time to get started again.

Always go around the circle
Roundabouts are safer than traditional junctions. Only if you follow them correctly. No matter how far away the roundabout may seem from your turn, go around it, even if there isn’t anyone on the road. Roundabouts have been designed to avoid collision while taking turns at a junction.

Don’t splash
During heavy rain, most streets are flooded with water. If you see a pool of muddy water, slow down, there could be a huge pothole there. And go slow if there are motorcyclists and pedestrians around. It’s quite an unpleasant experience to have a car splash water on you, especially when you need to get to some place neat and tidy.

Park sensibly
When parking in narrow streets, make sure the cars are staggered and not parallel, so that there’s enough space for a vehicle to pass through. While parallel parking, make sure there’s uniform distance between the cars in front and back of you.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Running-in Basics

When you bought your new motorcycle or scooter, your dealer might have told you to use caution for the first few hundred kilometers. He would have advised you against riding fast, taking a pillion along, blipping the throttle etc. It will be mentioned in your user manual as well. This is called running-in.

Running-in (or breaking-in) is a procedure by which a new piece of machinery is made to run under reduced load to ensure proper meshing of moving parts and in turn ensure longevity of the equipment. This procedure is commonly done in new engines. The goal is to make sure there is tight and even setting of the piston rings in to the cylinder walls. Every bit of size and shape adjustment must be done so that it can settle into a stable bond for the rest of their working life. In simpler words, imagine you’re given some clay and ask to make something useful with it before it hardens.

Some of the common precautions that help are:

Keep the revs low
As tempting as it might be to open the throttle and enjoy quick sudden bursts of acceleration, it's advisable to keep the revs moderately low and avoid sudden bursts of acceleration. Avoid taking a heavy pillion or climbing steep slopes as they too stress the engine.

Vary the revs
Do not keep the revs constant for any length of time. Keep accelerating and deceleration alternately, while changing gears often. Also means don’t let the vehicle idle.

Don’t let it get hot
If you’re riding long, take constant breaks as new engines tend to get hot quite soon.

First service is very important
Don’t neglect your first service. This is when the engine oil is changed for the first time. This first oil change must be done well within the time period prescribed by your dealer. Tiny metal silvers get removed with the first oil change.

There are no official guidelines to run-in a vehicle. There are many theories related as to how to properly run-in your vehicle. Some experts believe in stressing your engine hard to obtain a good run-in; however, it's best to stick to the proven guidelines given in the owner’s manual.
This procedure applies mainly to motorcycle and scooters. Cars have bigger engines and they don’t really require a run-in as most of it is done by the manufacturers before delivery.

Happy motoring… :)

This is an article I had written for my college magazine. Just thought I'd share it here too. :)

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Suzuki SX4 automatic 3000km report

Hi,
We had bought our Silver SX4 Automatic in May. It has clocked 3000km so far.
The main reason we shifted to the SX4 was that my father who suffers from Arthritis was finding the Honda CityZX harder to drive each passing day. The clutch was rock hard for him. Knowing that we would be losing out on very good qualities of the City (such as good fuel efficiency and quality interiors), we went ahead and booked the SX4 Automatic.
After having driven the car for a couple of months now, I find this to be much easier to drive than the City.

My findings so far:

One: The steering is lighter than expected. I have driven SX4s before and was always allergic to its tight steering.

Two: The auto box is fantastic. Shifts well on time, shifts are quite smooth too. Just keep hovering over 50kmph or so and it will shift to the 4th (overdrive) gear to save fuel.
80kmph can be maintained at cool 2000rpm in the topmost gear. Press the throttle a little harder and the revs raise for a bit more pulling power. Not enough? Press still harder and the box kicks-down and pulls away with ease so you can overtake. Once you're done, just lift your foot off a bit and its back to cruising.
I am thoroughly impressed with the box on the SX4. Anyone who's buying an SX4 ought to seriously consider the Automatic.

Three: Fuel efficiency- my father travels to office via the Bangalore Elevated Highway to reach Electronic City; hence the trip would be 65% city traffic and 35% highway (he maintains 80kmph on the elevated highway) We have been getting FE figures anywhere between 10~13kmpl.
I'm guessing the figures should improve after the second and third services.
Anyone buying the SX4 automatic can expect 9kmpl-13kmpl.


Despite having lower FE figures than our previous City, we are completely satisfied with our choice of car. The SX4 provides good comfort, highway stability and ease of drive in city.

I will keep reporting FE figures.
Please feel free to comment or ask me any questions about the SX4 automatic.

Thanks,

Regards,
Vignesh Giridharan
vignesh.giridharan@gmail.com

Monday, April 12, 2010

Trends adopted on newer motorcycles


The motorcycle industry in India is slowly changing. Manufacturers are starting to adopt newer trends and styles that increases the overall efficiency and appeal of a motorcycle.
Some of the common changes that I see in today’s modern motorcycle are-

Running the headlamps off DC
 
Headlamps on motorcycles were initially made to run off the power generated by the engine dynamo (AC current) to reduce load on the battery and sometimes because, the motorcycle wasn’t equipped with a battery at all.
The drawback though, was that the intensity of the beam reduced with reduction in engine speed. This made the headlamp almost useless when going at slow speeds, say while crawling over a speed-breaker.
First introduced in Bullets, now becoming a common trend-newer motorcycles have their headlamps running directly off the battery (DC current), just like on a car. This provides a steady illumination of the road. Some motorcycles are equipped with an electronic timer to switch the headlamp off if the rider forgets to when the bike is in ignition.


Use of tubeless tyres

Sure it was taboo when the market first saw tubeless tyres. Questions roused as to whether one would be able to fix punctures on a tubeless tyre easily, as most puncture repair shops didn’t know about it.
The primary advantage of a tubeless tyre is in internal construction and materials used. A tubed tyre is vulnerable to friction and heat generated between the tube and the inner surface of the tube which reduces life of the tube. In a tubeless tyre the inner layer of the tyre is the tube itself. This layer is made of a material like halo-butyl or chlorobutyl which is basically resistant to heat and reduces permeation of air. As a result, blow-out of tyres at high speeds is prevented.
Slowly the tubeless tyre became accepted as people slowly started believing in its advantages and now they are factory fitment on most cars.
The motorcycle industry seems to have joined the bandwagon now. Honda and Yamaha were the first to begin the use of tubeless tyres on motorcycles. Now, a good number of motorcycles come factory fitted with tubeless tyres. MRF and TVS tyres are prime manufacturers in India.


Use of maintenance-free battery
 
Just as on modern cars, the motorcycle manufacturers too are factory-fitting maintenance-free batteries on their motorcycles.
A maintenance-free battery is a sealed lead-acid battery where the oxygen evolved at the positive plates will largely recombine with the hydrogen ready to evolve on the negative plates, creating water—thus preventing water loss. There is no need to check the level of electrolyte or to top up water lost due to electrolysis, reducing inspection and maintenance.


Replacement of carburetor with electronic fuel-injection system
 
The fuel-injection (FI) technology hasn’t really kicked off in India. The main reasons for that is

-    A number of people don’t believe in this technology. They simply don’t like the idea of handing the job over to a computer while the carburetor has been doing a decent job all these years

-    A motorcycle equipped with FI is relatively more expensive when compared to a regular carbureted one

-    Unlike carburetor, an FI system will not allow one to manually tweak the jet of air and fuel mixture which resulted in difference in power or fuel-efficiency

The FI unit is a closed-loop system that basically consists of a microprocessor (ECU) which does the same thing a carburetor is supposed to, only better. It maintains an extremely precise air/fuel mixture. This is done by monitoring various inputs from several sensors which sense cylinder head temperature, throttle position, manifold air pressure, oxygen, air-inlet temperature etc. Based on these data, the ECU optimizes the air/fuel mixture hundreds of times per second by determining how long and when the injectors spray fuel into the port.
The result is a more efficient engine that consumes less fuel and reduces exhaust emissions.
It also ensures a better start-up. Instead of the rider guessing the engine temperature and choking the carburetor manually, the FI system will start the engine and keep it running at a required speed to warm up. Also, there is no chance of the idle speed being incorrect as it is fully controlled by the FI system.
Honda was the first to bring their PGM-FI system on the Hero Honda Glamour. It certainly was more expensive than the usually carbureted motorcycles. So are the current crops of FI-equipped motorcycles. In the days to come, stricter emission norms will force motorcycle manufacturers to use these electronic FI systems on all motorcycles.
I am not trying to say that the FI system is the solution to all the problems but I am trying to lean on a system that is more efficient. That currently happens to be the FI system. Be it the FI system today or some other technology in the years to come, the manufacturers should boldly adopt these trends. The buyers must also be educated about newer trends and ideas. 





Elimination of the kick-start lever


I wouldn’t really call this a step forward for now. Manufacturers have eliminated the kick-start lever from most premium motorcycles, leaving the ignition job solely to a battery and starter motor. Ignition is assisted by the FI system and in non-FI motorcycles, an auto-choke.
Many motorcycles are plagued by weak batteries and bad starter motors. In such a case, the FI system becomes useless. In the non-FI case, I am not entirely convinced with the auto-choke system. It never works flawlessly and is meant only to save the rider the trouble of choking in cold temperatures.
In my opinion, since these motorcycles aren’t of huge capacities, a kick-start lever must be provided so that the rider can easily start up the motorcycle in case of a fault with all these electronic ignition gizmos.


Use of twin horns
 
Barely anyone can hear the puny horn of a motorcycle in a crowded street. That’s why today’s motorcycles are equipped with louder twin horns. Relatively, they are louder, thus making it easier to alert others on the road.

Visual changes
 
LED tail-lamps
 
This is no change made to improve the efficiency of the bike. In fact, it‘s just another marketing gimmick- to advertise that their motorcycle has as a LED tail-lamp.
Technically, they consume lesser power than the old tungsten bulbs and add to the overall looks of the motorcycle. Also, they do not vary in brightness with engine speed as they run on battery directly. The use of these LEDs is okay as long as they are of good quality. It’s of no use to have them if they’re life is going to be lesser than that of the old bulbs.


Digital instrument consoles
 
Again, this is a change made only to increase the appeal of the motorcycle. Manufacturers have started using a digital LCD display for showing speed and fuel level.
The first thing that comes to my mind when I hear about this digital console affair is- you switch on the ignition, the backlight turns on, all the segments of the LCD display darken, the tacho needle goes whirring, giving you the feel of a pseudo sports bike doing a pre-ignition self test.
The real advantage is if those displays can show the time or other essential data which is useful. Rest is only for the looks. Some like it, but I am not a fan of this. I prefer analogue dials which have easier readability.

These are the changes I have noticed in today’s motorcycle.
This is my first blog; please feel free to comment on anything. Do correct me if I am wrong.